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Fall in the Columbia Valley: A Cozy and Adventurous Radium Hot Springs Getaway
If you love golden larches, steaming hot springs, warm cookies at a backcountry cabin, and the sunny side of the Canadian Rockies then you need to add fall in the Columbia Valley to your bucketlist.
The Columbia Valley sits on the warm side of the Rockies, so it's typically milder than the Banff side. That means pleasant picnic weather by tiny lakes, birch-lined roads glowing yellow, salmon spawning in the streams, and larch groves lighting up the high country. Here's how I spent a cozy and adventurous fall getaway to the Columbia Valley.
Getting there: fly into Calgary and rent a car
Fly into Calgary and rent a car. Radium Hot Springs is roughly a three hour drive away, and you'll want your own wheels for the trailheads.
A tip from experience: rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle or something with high clearance. Some of the roads to the trailheads can be rough, and you'll be glad to have the extra capability.
Day 1: Fly into Calgary, drive through Kootenay National Park, and settle in
Land in Calgary, pick up your rental car, and hit the road the same day. The drive to Radium Hot Springs takes you through Kootenay National Park which is beautiful!
There are plenty of viewpoints to pull over at, so give yourself time to stop. Highlights along the way include Marble Canyon, the Paint Pots, and Numa Falls, a roadside waterfall that's an easy stop.
Where to stay: Motel Tyrol
Once you reach Radium Hot Springs, check in at Motel Tyrol, a very cute Bavarian-style hotel right in town. It's the cozy home base this trip deserves:
A year-round heated pool
Rooms with balconies
A hot tub and cedar sauna
A treehouse with a beautiful view of the Columbia Valley
After a day of driving, a sauna and a soak is the perfect way to end your first night.
Day 2: Diana Lake and Pinnacle Meadows Backcountry Cabin
Breakfast at Screamers Cafe
Start the morning at Screamers Cafe. As a Motel Tyrol guest, you can get a breakfast voucher for it through the hotel, so ask at check-in.
Hike to Diana Lake
Head to the Diana Lake Trailhead and hike up to Diana Lake. This is where the four-wheel drive or high clearance can pay off on the way to the trailhead.
The lake is ringed by multiple larch groves, which makes it a perfect fall destination when the needles turn golden.
Lunch at Pinnacle Meadows Backcountry Cabin
At the top, stop in at Pinnacle Meadows Backcountry Cabin Teahouse. It serves lunch every day except Thursdays, from noon to 3 p.m.: tomato soup, focaccia, fresh warm cookies, and hot tea. Few things say cozy like that after a climb. (Hours can change, so double-check before you go.)
Dinner at Steamboat Lounge & Forage
Hike back down and head into town for dinner at Steamboat Lounge & Forage. Save room for the crème brûlée - it is amazing.
Day 3: Town, shops, scenic drives, and sunset
Breakfast at Big Horn Cafe
Start the day with breakfast at the Big Horn Cafe in Radium Hot Springs. I love the quiche there. Grab some sandwhiches to go for lunch!
Visitor Center
Start at the Radium Hot Springs Visitor Center, which has interactive maps and exhibits plus information about local activities. It's a great way to get your bearings and pick up trail and road conditions.
Shopping in town
Wander the shops downtown:
Radium Trading Company for t-shirts and souvenirs
Wired by Nature for lotions, candles, and other lovely little gifts
A scenic drive and a lakeside picnic
There are tons of scenic drives in the Columbia Valley. Look for birch-lined roads that turn yellow in fall, and a ton of tiny lakes to visit along the way. Pack a picnic and enjoy it by the water. This is also a good time of year to find spots where you can watch salmon spawning. If you drive from Radium Hot Springs to Spillmacheen you’ll see many amazing views!
Head for a soak at the springs
Head to Radium Hot Springs inside the park for a relaxing soak in the warm thermal pool! It’s a great way to relax your legs after your hike the day before. Make sure to pack a swimsuit and bring a towel! If you don’t have one you can also rent a towel at the front desk.
Sunset over the Columbia River and Wetlands
End the day with sunset overlooking the Columbia River and the Columbia Wetlands, one of the largest unbroken freshwater wetlands in the world. For the trail itself, try the Wilmer Wetlands Trail, a loop along the edge of the wetlands with a steeper section that rewards you with big views of the Rocky and Purcell Mountains.
Dinner at the Old Salzburg Restaurant
We love all the Alps-inspired cuisine in the Columbia Valley so every time we visit we load up on Austrian cuisine! We ate dinner at the Old Salzburg Restaurant where I always get the salmon champignon!
Day 4: Brewer Lakes
Breakfast at the Invermere Bakery
Start with breakfast at the Invermere Bakery. The quiche is great here too, and my gluten-free friend found some really cool gluten-free baked goods. Grab sandwiches to go for lunch at the lake.
Hike to Brewer Lakes
Head out for Brewer Lakes, a hike that features two lakes and a bunch of large larch groves. It's really pretty. The trails are maintained by the Summit Trailmakers Society, a volunteer-run organization, so if you love the trail, they're a great group to support.
Dinner in Invermere
After the hike, you’ll drive right through m Invermere, so you can stop for dinner at The Black Forest Restaurant. It's a Bavarian steak and schnitzel house serving things like pork schnitzel, locally made German sausages, rouladen, and spätzle, in a building that wouldn't look out of place in the Alps. It's a fun echo of Motel Tyrol's Bavarian charm, and a hearty meal after a big hiking day.
Day 5: Paddle the Columbia Wetlands and head home
Breakfast at Beginnings Restaurant
Start your last morning with breakfast at Beginnings Restaurant in Invermere. They had some fun fall themed coffee and teas!
Paddle with Columbia River Paddle
Spend the morning paddling the Columbia Wetlands with Columbia River Paddle. Keep an eye out for eagles and otters. If you have a full day to explore, you can paddle from Invermere down the Columbia River to Radium Hot Springs, and they'll pick you up with a shuttle.
Drive back to Calgary
Head back through Kootenay National Park. Marble Canyon and the Paint Pots are both great places to stretch your legs on the return.
Quick tips
Rent a 4x4 or high-clearance vehicle. Some trailhead roads are rough.
Ask Motel Tyrol for your Screamers Cafe breakfast voucher.
Check conditions and hours. Larch color and cabin hours can shift from year to year.
Bring layers. It's the warm side of the Rockies, but fall mountain weather still changes fast.
Respect the wetlands. Follow Leave No Trace principles, especially around wildlife and nesting areas.
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